Peak Palatka 5020m
The route: along the western ridge
Category of difficulty: 3A
The duration of the season: from 15 June to 30 September.
Brief description of the tour. From the resort Altyn - Arashan it seems quite close, and ice falls on its north wall attract the eyes of climbers. The north wall is complex and is available only for experienced climbers, but our guides, developed a route that allows beginners to climb to the top.
Duration of climbing 8 days + 1 day in case of bad weather. Route is snow - ice.Plan of climbing by days:
- Day 1 – Briefing of the program, selection of equipment and meal.
- Day 2 - We are reaching Altyn Arashan by car (2 hours) and then walk to Eki Chat place (4-5 hours walk). Accommodation in tents.
- Day 3 - Walking to the bottom of the pass Hatiga, (5-6 hours walking).
- Day 4 - Climbing over the pass Hatiga, (5-6 hours walking).
- Day 5 - Ascent to the top of the peak Palatka and descend over the Pass Hatiga (10-12 hours climbing)
- Day 6 - Descent to confluence of Takyr Tor rivers. There will be o good opportunity to see wild hot springs. (5-6 hours walk).
- Day 7 - Descent to the valley Altyn Arashan and relaxing in hot springs. Dinner and bed in the guesthouse. (3-5 hours walk).
- Day 8 – Walking down by Altyn-Arashan valley up to beginning of the valley. Meeting with the car and returning to Karakol. Short city tour. End of the program.
Climbers should have their own equipment and staff for climbing. Possibility to rent all the necessary equipment.
- 1. Climbing harness
- 2. Anchoring, protection (prusik- 2 items 0.5m)
- 3. Carabiner, biner (3 for each one)
- 4. Crampons
- 5. Ice-axe
- 6. Jumar, ascender
- 7. Helmet
- 8. Figure-8 (gear or knot), Munter hitch
The climatic conditions: This trip passes at altitude of 2,000 to 5020 meters, in the area of glaciers. In case of good weather temperature rises up to + 30C during day time, and may fall to 5-10C at night. In case of bad weather temperature may fall to 5C during day time, and drop to minus during night time. Sometimes it snows, snows with rain and biting wind. The weather is unstable in august. The weather may change quickly several times a day. Protracted rains are possible. That’s why sleeping bag shouldn’t be less than “medium” class, with comfortable conditions up to -10C. Also must have: windbreaker, water-repellent, thermal underwear, fleece sweater, mountain shoes suitable for crampons, spare shoes sandals ( it is possible cross the river ford), sunglasses, cap, gloves, flashlight, headlight, supergaiters, rainwear.
The price includes:
- Transfer by 4-wheel car
- English speaking guide and one assistant (food and equipment of guide and assistant)
- Groups more than 5 persons are provided with 2 assistants of guide
- Meal, porters, equipment and etc.
- Hotel accommodation and etc. not mentioned in the price of the program