Russia Peak 5112 m

Description: Alpinism- 3B-The route is snow-ice. 

 Season: 1 July- 15 September 

 The peak is located in the eastern part of Arashan gorge. Duration of climbing - 5 days (2 days for approach, 1 day for ascension, 2 days for comedown). It is necessary to possess mountaineering technique. Peak Khan-Tengri and peak Pobedy (Victory peak), summits of Koiluu valley and Sary-Djaz are seen from Russia peak. The assault (summit) is located at height 4120m on the Russia glacier. 

  • Day 1. Meeting in Karakol. Briefing of the tour program. Selection of equipment and food 
  • Day 2. Going by car to Altyn Arashan gorge (hot springs). After arriving climbing further to Altyn Arashan gorge. 
  • Day 3. Climbing to Russia glacier 
  • Day 4. Ascension to Russia peak 5112m. 
  • Day 5. Descent to Altyn-Arashan gorge. Taking hot spring. 
  • Day 6. Going down by walk to the beginning of gorge, meeting with car and transfer to Karakol. End of the service.

Climbers should have their own equipment and staff for climbing. 

Required equipment: 

  • 1. Climbing harness 
  • 2. Anchoring, protection ( prusik- 2 items 0.5m) 
  • 3. Carabiner, biner (3 for each one) 
  • 4. Crampons 
  • 5. Ice-axe 
  • 6. Jumar, ascender 
  • 7. Helmet 
  • 8. Figure-8 (gear or knot), Munter hitch


The climatic conditions: This trip passes at altitude of 2,000 to 5112 meters, in the area of glaciers. In case of good weather temperature rises up to + 30C during day time, and may fall to 5-10C at night. In case of bad weather temperature may fall to 5C during day time, and drop to minus during night time. Sometimes it snows, snows with rain and biting wind. The weather is unstable in august. The weather may change quickly several times a day. Protracted rains are possible. That’s why sleeping bag shouldn’t be less than “medium” class, with comfortable conditions up to -10C. Also must have: windbreaker, water-repellent, thermal underwear, fleece sweater, mountain shoes suitable for crampons, spare shoes sandals ( it is possible cross the river ford), sunglasses, cap, gloves, flashlight, headlight, supergaiters, rainwear.

The price includes: 

  •  Transfer by 4-wheel car 
  •  English speaking guide and one assistant(food and equipment of guide and assistant) 
  •  Groups more than 5 persons are provided with 2 assistants of guide 

 Not included: 

  • Meal, porters, equipment and etc. 
  • Insurance 
  • Hotel accommodation and etc. not mentioned in the price of the program
Rent Equipment 
Rent Equipment 
You can order transport in Kyrgyzstan and Karakol
Useful Information 
Useful Information 


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